NYC Bouldering Guide
Rat Rock\North Face 2
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Rat Rock\North Face
Rat Rock\North Face 2
Rat Rock\East Face
Rat Rock\East Face 2
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Cat Rock 2
Ramble Rock and Chess Rock
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Riverside Park
Ft. Tryon and Inwood Park
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Vista Rock 2

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6.  Layback  V1
Start:  At the extreme low point of the crack mentioned in Low Traverse.
Go:  Layback the crack to the top of the boulder. 
 
7.  Little Overhang  V0+
Start:  Same as Layback.
Go:  Instead of laybacking the crack, move up a little and then reach out right for a hold at the bottom of the starter flake.  Move feet right and bring the left hand over to a side pull on the starter flake.  Power to the top.
 
8.  Koma's Roof  (aka Rat Trap)  V9/10?  **
Start:  Sitting beneath the large overhang on the right side of the north face.  Hands matched on undercling.
Go:  Out, up and over.
 
Currently has seen only 2 or 3 ascents.  Start may be body-size specific.  All the climbers who have completed the start were fairly short in height.  If you start with the right hand out on the first sloper the grade drops to V7.
 

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9.  Overhanging Traverse (aka Polish Traverse) V5***
Start:  At the bottom of the right-leaning crack, just left and below the "starter" flake. 
Go:  Move up and traverse right past the "starter" flake following hand holds just below or at the lip.  Traverse right onto the small holds of the small west face and continue to a crack.  Finish by moving right along the lip of the rock and step off.
 
This was a long-established problem with several variations before it became known as the Polish Traverse.  It acquired that name in the early 90s after a number of strong climbers from Poland began working the problem extensively.
 
Variations:  No-Feet.  V6    Speedy Gonzalez:  Skip the dished-out hold above the lip halfway along the west face and also skip the pinch hold that most people use ... going straight from the low sloper and crimp with one big move to the crack.  V7
 
10.  Highway Connector  V2 *
Start:  As one ends the left-to-right version of Rat Rock Traverse or the High Traverse.
Go:  Stay high as you move right toward the right-leaning crack.  Use holds above the "starter" flake and below the lip to link up with the Overhanging Traverse.
 
An excellent link-up problem that is fun to do by itself.

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©  Copyright Nicolas Falacci 2003