21. Death By Dizzy V4 (R) *
Start: At large holds near the middle of the Small Wall right of
the obvious chimney.
Go: Traverse left staying low, past Rat Hole and past large
flakes beneath Easy Overhang. Continue left until the left hand reaches the low bulge start of Ratraverse.
Then power straight up to the holds just left of The Horn. Move left into the big flake and continue to the
rail. Traverse the long rail to the small right-facing corner at its end. Continue moving left (crux, bad landing)
and traverse into the small boulder-filled gully, using small holds found just below or at the lip of the wall. Traverse
until one is forced to climb up and out.
This problem was conceived as an endurance-training route and makes the most of Rat Rock's
east face. It was named in honor of a vicious rat killing by a Jack Russell terrier at the rocks right beneath the crux.
There are two different sequences by which to get through the crux. One involves using an undercling and is more dangerous
if a fall were to happen. The other keeps the climber lower and is less prone to cause injury in the event of a fall.
A spotter is highly recommended.
22. Rat Hole V0- (5.4)
Start: At the obvious narrow chimney that splits the right side
of the east face.
Go: Squirm up the grungy chimney to the top.
It is more difficult, but more pleasant to stay out of the crack and layback the large left
flake. (5.6)
23. Small Wall Left V0
Start: Just right of the littered chimney.
Go: Climb straight up the left side fo the small face, starting
on the broken bulge and on to the thin face holds and the top.
24. Small Wall Middle V0- (5.8)
Start: On the small ledges just off the ground, right of Small
Wall Left.
Go: Straight up and over to the top.
25. Small Wall Right V0- (5.7)
Start: Just right of Small Wall Middle, at the right side
of the small wall.
Go: Straight up.
26. Rat Walk V0+ *
Start: Either on Easy Overhang or The Horn.
Go: Hand traverse left along the edge of the top of the east face.
At the top of Testpiece, look for small dished out holds that will lead you through the crux and to the rail.
Continue traverse left to the right-facing corner and flakes and exit straight up.
Like many other problems at Rat Rock, this one was born out of boredom. However, the
crux is worthwhile and fun.
