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Cat Rock is located immediately north of the Wollman Skating Rink
at the very south end of Central Park, just a short walk from Rat Rock. Follow paths east from Rat Rock, walking under
or over Center Drive. Cat Rock is the obvious south-facing rock wall.
In the
summer of 1987, when I first visited Cat Rock, there were only rumors of bouldering routes there. What I initially found
was not encouraging. There wasn't a single trace of chalk. Beyond the obvious
corner and the arete that created it, the wall was very steep and at first glance, utterly blank. Tall weeds and bushes
grew close to the rock face and true to its name, feral cats lived under the boulder. A cat-loving
homeless person made sure they were well fed by placing open cans of cat food along the
base. Over the next two years, however, Cat Rock underwent an amazing transformation
and emerged as a true proving ground for local and visiting climbers. The only two
established problems in 1987 were the obvious arete and the steep face immediately to the left of the arete. These were
to be eclipsed by long sought after routes up the middle face. These new routes were pioneered
in winter as cold dry weather proved crucial to sticking to the endless parade of tiny crimpers. Initial attempts at the blank middle face proved fruitless. It seemed impossible
to many and rumors circulated of previous eras of strong climbers all failing to find a way up. Then, toward
the end of 1988, Nick Falacci established Fancy Feast V3 on the very left side of the middle face. Jeff Dahlgren
quickly repeated the problem and found it was possible to move right after a few moves and access small holds high on the
middle face. Dahlgren's variation became a classic new problem in its own right (The Dawg V5), but more importantly
revealed that the upper half of the middle face was climbable. Would the bottom half go? The answer came
quickly in early 1989 when New Mexico climber Jean DeLataillade unlocked the sequence to the opening moves. Private
Angel V6 quickly proved to be the hardest and best boulder problem in New York City at the time. Soon after,
Chris Gonzalez and Jeff Dahlgren began working on an even harder project that darted up the face between Private Angel
and Scratching Post. Elias V9 was eventually put up in a cold winter day in February 1989. DeLataillade made
a fast third ascent, but soon after a key hold broke near the start. The problem went unclimbed for several years
until Komba finally managed to create an entirely new sequence to overcome both the broken hold and the very height-related
crux. Following six months of intense focused effort, Komba climbed Elias utilizing 22 moves to get up 13 feet
of rock. Since then, there have been no other known ascents.
1. Hissy Fit V0
Start: On the slightly overhanging face just
right of the obvious right-facing corner.
Go: Up onto the low ledge and make a tenuous
move to gain the top.
Bad landing.
2. Cat Corner V0- (5.8)
Start: At the obvious right-facing corner on the east side of the
boulder.
Go: Up the awkward corner.
Bad landing.
3. The Arete V0+ ***
Start: On either side of the obvious arete that creates the left
side of Cat Corner.
Go: Up the left side of the arete to the top. (If you start
on the right side, make an initial hard move to gain the left side of the arete.)
A classic boulder problem. One of the best in its grade. Despite being modest
in height, it can feel intimidating, especially near the top. However, good holds are to be found for the exit moves.
4. Scratching Post V3 (aka L.O.T.A.)
**
Start: Immediately left of the arete. The right hand crimps
on a thin, sharp flake hold. The left hand on a small sloped hold.
Go: Straight up. Gain the obvious foothold and make one hard
move to grab the good hold above. Top out directly or move left to the groove and exit.
This problem was originally referred to as "Left of the Arete." At the time it was
the only established problem on the main face.
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