This area, consisting of two separate faces on a very large boulder, has the
most popular and some of the most difficult climbing in Central Park. It is also an excellent meeting place for climbers.
Before 1987, most local climbers had been content to repeat only the well-established
lines. At the time, only two or three individuals were capable of climbing Testpiece (referred to back
them as "5.11 Direct") and then only the bottom half. People talked of the High Traverse on the north face,
but no one did it. Only infrequently did local or visiting climbers look to new problems or attempt a severe one.
The Rat Rock scene was, in a word, quiescent. This, of course, inevitably changed. First, there was the Japanese
contingent of Yuki, Komba and Tamaki. These three were determined, passionate climbers who all sought problems of greater
difficulty and complexity, seeking to establish a level of technique in their moves that approached artistry. Then came
two relative novices, Nick Falacci and Jeff Dahlgren, who quickly became bitten by the climbing bug and who both brought an
ambitious quality to their climbing. They were the ones out at Rat Rock on 30 degree winter days, unable to not climb
for more than a few days at a time. Then came a collection of experienced and talented climbers who had returned to
the sport with renewed interest. John Blumenthal, Sandy Mah and Chris Gonzalez brought years of refined techniqe to
the mix and pushed the entire local scene to new, higher standards.
Getting things rolling, the Japanese contingent established Tweaky Shit.
Soon after, Nick Falacci managed put up Rat Patrol after an all-day ordeal. A visiting Yosemite climber put
together Ratraverse in an afternoon. Jeff Dahlgren nabbed the first known ascent of the No-Feet variation of
the Overhanging (Polish) Traverse. Sandy Mah, a former Eldorado activist, re-established "5.11 Direct"
with a new committing direct mantle finish. Jeff Dahlgren then eliminated the big foot bulge out right from the
opening moves, eliminated the prominent rail for the left hand and thus created a perfect directissima line that was far more
graceful and powerful than the original problem, bumping up the grade to V4. John Blumethal and Nick Falacci make
quick repeats of the problem and due to its more difficult nature, it reverted to its older, simpler and original name --
Testpiece.
Not long after that, a whole contingent of lcoals including Blumenthal, Dahlgren,
Falacci and David Sowerby pieced together a crimpy, technical low traverse of the east face called Bottom Line.
Eventually the moves were linked together by Blumethal and Dahlgren. Possibly the only two climbers to have done the
whole line as a key hold at the crux broke shortly after. The Japanese contingent responded quickly with Komba putting
up a wild, unlikely and futuristic problem under the overhanging west side. Komba's Roof has since seen only
two or three complete ascents since then.
Rat Rock has never seen so much chalk or activity. Potential for new problems
dried up quickly. Climbers were forced to create even wilder, more contrived eliminates. Death by Dizzy,
Falacci's complete traverse of the east face, was more of an endurance and nerve test than technical boulder problem and it
seemed to announce the end of this era of frantic problem-finding.
However, Rat Rock would never be the same. It never returned completely
to the casual, mellow uncrowded scene of yesteryear. New wave after new wave of strong climbers have discovered its
ability to delight and perplex.
