4. Pawn Crack VB (5.6+)
Start: At the leftmost crack line, up the hill and
under the tree near the Chess and Checkers House.
Up the crack using whatever holds you find as you go.
5. The Bishop V0+ ***
Start: At two broken insipient crack seams between
Pawn Crack and Checkers.
Using an assortment of crystal holds and edges, work your way up the face until you can reach the crystal dike above
that offers a large hold (as well as the smaller rail below it). Trend to the left as you exit.
Variation: After gaining the crystal dike and
the better holds, step right and exit right via a hard-to-find edge near the top. V1 (A wee bit
scary topping out.)
Knight's Challenge V0-
Find the key footholds that allow you to work your way up. You'll find yourself trending toward the crack, but you
must resist temptation and only use the face holds to the right of the crack. (If you don't feel up for the exit
moves, you can bail out left via the crack.)
7. Rooked V2 **
Start: Right of Checkers and right of Knight's Challenge at
the small scoop near the left side of some obvious yellow lichen. Looking up, you'll see another obvious incipient
seam a little to the left.
Go: Step up into the scoop. Work your way up over the bulge, finding smaller and
thinner holds as you climb toward a hard-to-see flake/edge. Getting to the flake/edge is the crux. Hang in
there until you can get your feet set and you can reach some better holds. Top out on the upper slabby part of the face.
Variation 1: Sans Voir V3 As
you work your way over the small bulge in the face, instead of angling slightly right toward the crux flake edge, trend
left toward the incipient crack above that offers some small holds. Continue up the incipient crack (crux)
until you finally come across some better holds and top out.
2: Kriegspiel V4/5 Combines a sit-start with variation 1 for an intense, super
thin face problem. Find a comfortable spot to sit-start amid the yellow lichen, right of the small scoop.
Follow the diagonal flake line left until you join the original Rooked start at the scoop. Then up to the incipient
seam on the left and finish on Sans Voir.
quality problem and variations, but be prepared to lose some skin if you session here too long.
*The landing is good, relatively flat, but it's recommended to have a pad or spotter or both given the
nature of the crux and finishing moves.
steep and not high. Yet the top-outs are a little cheek-clenching.