11. The Flake V0- ***
Start: At the tallest, steepest section of
the eastern face, find an obvious, large right-facing flake that archs up right.
Go: Move up the flake until you can reach out
left and gain the long rail. Climb straight up.
A true classic.
Variation: Flake/Crystal follows the
flake up and right and to the top via a somewhat hidden crystal hold. V1
12. Testpiece V4 ***
Start: On small, crystal holds immediately
to the left of The Flake.
Go: Crimp up a line of small face holds to
a shallow, thin horizontal crack, then straight up from there (avoiding the rail) to a hold where the rail ends. Mantle
directly onto the upper slab section via a small two-finger crystal.
The original Rat Rock testpiece. For many years the hardest problem
in the park. Crimpy and powerful. Hard moves lead to an exciting finish.
Variation: An earlier, easier version.
Use the obvious bulge out right for the right foott and the obvious rail for the left hand. V3
13. Rat Patrol V4 **
Start: Immediately left of Testpiece
on low crystal holds.
Go: Straight up, using two of the small face
holds on the lower part of Testpiece for the right hand. Left hand on a small right-facing sidepull,
right hand on the "tooth" hold, make the big move to the rail. Finish directly finding a good hold in the
large crystally rock above.
Not as sustained as Testpiece, but the moves are
almost as good.
14. Tweaky Shit V3
Start: Immediately left of Rat Patrol.
2-3 feet left of The Flake. The left-hand gaston on the sidepull of Rat Patrol becomes straight on
right-hand sidepull on this problem.
Go: Crank up on the tweaky opposing sidepulls
and grab the horizontal rail above. Continue to top.
Right-hand sidepull broke first in 1987 making the problem a little
harder. The hold broke even bigger the next year but was epoxied back on by Yuki after consulting with other local
climbers.
15. Ratraverse V2
Start: On the low bulge right of the flake
(used as a major foothold on The Flake problem). Small hand holds are found on the top and side of the bulge.
Go: Move left to the large flake, then up slightly.
Traverse left across the middle of the face until you find yourself in the middle of the Tweaky Shit crux.
Gain the rail above and hand traverse the rail to where it ends at a very small right facing corner. Power up the flakes
at the corner to the top.
Trick foot placement at crux.
